Fitting pants well is a challenge to even the most experienced sewists. What makes things worse is the lack of good examples in the Ready-To-Wear industry. And this is not just a problem for those of us with unusual figures! Any figure deviations from the current fashion model "norm" result in unflattering and uncomfortable pants.
After spending a year in flat patternmaking classes I was still unable to make a pair of pants that fit well. I bought and read all the books I could find on flat pattern drafting hoping to discover the "secret." When that didn't work, I resorted to reading the texts by the leading sewing experts and still couldn't make a fitting pair of pants.
Not being a quitter (and frankly I still couldn't find decent RTW), I started analyzing my body versus the shape of flat pants patterns. I have come up with a few tips that I'm hoping might benefit other sewists as frustrated as I was.If you have any comments or would like to share with me other ideas for posting please email lindrix. This page last updated 12/26/00.
Index
The Crotch as a fitting challenge
Tip #1, Find your crotch width measurement
Tip #2, Find your individual crotch curve
Tip #3, Solution for pants cleaving into buttocks
The most difficult to fit and the most important area for comfort, looks, and ease is the crotch area of pants. Most commercial patterns and most RTW do not allow enough crotch width. Note the distinction between crotch depth and crotch width. Consider these body shape diagrams:
Is it really reasonable to think that these three body shapes be treated the same?TIP #1
Find your crotch width measurement and compare and adjust your pattern before cutting.One way to find the crotch width measurement is by constructing a double square or U shaped square measurement tool. You can do this by cutting out stiff paperboard, or by using two metal "L" shaped squares. Add two snug rubber bands to keep the L's parallel to each other.
Wear a leotard or plain swimsuit. Place the Usquare between your legs and adjust so that the two vertical uprights just touch your abdomen and buttocks at their most protrusive spots.
Find the "center" crotch line by visually dividing the torso profile and mark with a small piece of tape or by moving one of the rubber bands. Note that this point isn't neccessarily half the crotch width.
Gently step out and record the distance between the two uprights and the center crotch point.
Now compare these two numbers to your paper pattern. If the distance between the center front and center back on your paper pattern isn't at least as much as your crotch width measurement then your pattern won't fit well.
You'll find that RTW and paper patterns try to get the ease into a pair of pants by lengthening the crotch (sometimes called "rise" or depth). This doesn't work if the width measurement is too small. Your pants will technically "fit" but will pull at the crotch when you raise your leg or try to sit down.
Why do they do this? Look at the back pattern piece; see that pointy crotch? It causes them to use more fabric. Lengthening the crotch instead uses less fabric and correspodingly cuts costs. Pattern companies interested in duplicating RTW follow suit.How to fix a too narrow crotch width? Extend the crotch point(s) horizontally until you have the correct width. You may need to extend more in the back or front depending on your individual measurements. Blend new extension into the inseam; before the knee for slacks or jeans; at or near the knee for trousers or pleated pants. Make sure you match your individual center crotch mark. Add a seam allowance in this area of at least 1" before cutting out. This will allow you to make fine tuned adjustments later on.
TIP #2
Find your individual crotch curve and record it.The best way I have found to get a good fit in the crotch curve is to do an individual fitting on your best pants pattern. Add (at least) a 1" seam allowance to the center front and center back area of the pattern and cut out in muslin or other stable inexpensive fabric.
Mark the original seam line and baste.
Try on to see where the fabric is bagging or pulling and let out or take in in 1/4" increments. Experiment around. Once you've found a good fit make a template of the curve recording the markings, center front, center back, etc. Use this template when altering new patterns.
Matching the exact crotch curve does not always result in the most flattering fit. Many sewing texts offer this advice (the so called flexible curve solution). Unless you have an extremely flat tummy this solution will probably not look right. Pants look their best falling straight down from the protrusion of the buttocks or tummy.
Pants cleaving into your buttocks? Let the crotch curve out. This same alteration fixes many front crotch curve problems too.
If you have flat buttocks or tummy deepen the curve.
